CyberFembot A.R.C. Assembly
By: Paul Kubiak

This assembly write-up was done by Paul Kubiak, one of our customers. He took the time and energy to do this amazing work for us. Seventeen separate sections on assembling our CyberFembot A.R.C. We'd planned on doing something like this when we got some time, but Paul exceeded our expectations with his work so we decided that we couldn't do any better ourselves. Great work Paul!

These pictures directly below are ones that we took of the tools we use to assemble our CyberFembots. The work Paul did is directly below that.

REPLACEMENT AND EXTRA PARTS ARE AVAILABLE, CONTACT US FOR DETAILS.
Don't know what the part is called? Have a look HERE.

Assembly Instructions

Our Kit and tools

Paul's Tools and work

Tools Used

PART ONE
"Arrival"

 Guess what came in the mail today?
01-04-06

 It's like Christmas 1986 baby!

 Close up of the contents. Everything arrived in perfect condition.

 The complete contents of the A.R.C. Do-it-yourself-kit.

 The canister containing the tires, screws and REALLY small pieces. Lose one of these babies and prepare to cry.

PART TWO
"Examination"

 A.R.C. in all her unassembled and Zip-Loc bagged glory.

 Hal & Co. are NOT kidding around when they say be organized and have patience. I laid out the entire contents to make sure that every single piece is accounted for.

 Next, I read the A.R.C. instructions. Twice.

 This is the face for the angry warrior A.R.C. that I will be using.

 And the other face I will set aside for now.

I was originally going to use the calm face, but for personal tastes I decided to use the "Angry Warrior" one. To me it looks better once assembled together. But that's just my taste, some people may want to use the other one. Tonight I will be painting the head white and giving the face details such as eyes, etc.

PART THREE
"Head"

  Next, I went about painting the face, using Krylon Fusion for the
light pink on her face, and using Testors Enamel for her eyes.

 I then hit a little snag while putting together the feet. The
notch on the left foot that is supposed to fit inside was not big enough,
and there was too much open space in the hole on the ankle.

 So I got a little creative. I would probably recommend NOT doing
this at home.

 Unless you have significant kit bashing experience, I would NOT
even attempt this. Looking back, using the drill was really risky.

 This is what I had the bright idea to use to anchor the feet to
the ankle.

PART FOUR
"D.M.A.N."

  I then printed out some reference photo's of Daniel.

 Then, I printed out a head shot of Daniel. Guess where this is
going to go?

 Added some paint applications using Testor's and assembled
everything together. I will have a couple of spots of paint to clean/touch up yet.
Headmaster Daniel!

 The finished A.R.C. head fully painted.

Next up, The arms!

 

PART FIVE
"Arms"

 I started the arms by laying out all the pieces I would need in order.

  Popped the hand into the wrist and connected the forearm to the elbow joint. Note: Be sure to use either a drill or an X-Acto blade and ream each hole for the rubber  bushings and screws so that it is not too tight.

  Connected the elbow joint to the upper arm and popped the upper arm peg into the  shoulder.

  Next I measured the rubber bushings to make sure they were not too long, nor too  short. Then I glued them into the hole on the back of the chest piece.

  Note! When using glues/adhesives, DO NOT use a brand called "Gorilla Glue". It is one of the strongest glues on planet Earth but it will ruin your models/toys because as it expands as it dries! Works great on some things, but not on A.R.C.!

  Now I just have to wait for the glue to dry and begin assembling the arms to the
 shoulder sockets and connecting them to the back of the chest piece.



 

PART SIX
"Chest"

 I mounted the shoulder connectors onto the rubber bushings. When doing this, make absolutely sure your glue has dried completely.

 Next, I screwed the connectors on and attached the arms to the shoulder ball joint.

 Then it was time to attach and glue the front end piece.

 After the glue had set and dried I painted the front end grill a dark grey.

 Then it was time to set and glue the collar piece.

 Next I will have to drill the hole for the neck ball joint in the collar piece, and then paint the neck a light shade of pink to match her face.

PART SEVEN
"Slide, Snap, and Link"

 My next step was to paint A.R.C.'s neck the same shade of pink as her face, and then insert the ball joint connector for the head and glue it into place. After looking at a few  pictures of other assembled A.R.C.'s I noticed that I had assembled the head-ball-joint  pieces in reverse of all the others, but I checked the transformation and everything still fits fine.

  Then I set the ball joint into place inside the head and glued it. When assembling the ball joints, make sure to connect and fit all the pieces before applying the glue. Makes  for a lot less headaches later on!

  Now it was time to insert the rubber bushing into the collar fender connector and
 screw it together with the fender connector beam.

  Once that piece was in place it was time to connect the next fender connector via
 rubber bushing and screw the two together.

 

  Now that the front chest and fender was assembled and nearly complete, I went to work on the main body frame it would connect to. Both of these pieces were snapped into place and glued together for stability.

  Next I drilled a 3/32" hole into the seat assembly piece.

  Then it was time to screw in place the back of the chest and waist piece. Do note 
 however that you do not want to screw it all the way tight. You have to leave a little space for the back chest/waist piece to slide smoothly up and down.

PART EIGHT
"God I'm having fun working on this!"

 Now that the seat assembly and back piece was screwed in place, I went back to the front chest piece and inserted the rubber bushing and screw inside the fender connector arm, thus connecting it to the fender connector spud.

 Then I screwed the spud in place and glued it to the main body for good measure. Before doing this I checked the transformation fit by folding the arms in and positioning where I would put the brass connection pins later on.

 Now, when I received my A.R.C. in the mail and I was checking for all the parts I freaked out for a minute or so because I thought I had only been given one small clear headlight instead of two. Not to worry. Upon further inspection I realized that they are both connected, you have to cut them apart with an x-acto blade.

Now that I had them cut apart and sanded down flush, it was time to get creative again.

 I applied a Testors brand Enamel Sky Blue paint to the headlight socket.

Then I used my clear glue to set the headlights in place.

Next I glued both headlight assemblies to the main body. Next up: Tires!

PART NINE
"Big Wheel Keep on Turning"

I went to work painting both sides of the wheels silver using Testors brand enamel paints
.

Then I painted the inside peg where the wheels attach silver also.

Once the paint dried it was time to fit the rubber tires over the wheels. (Bonus points for the G1 style rubber tires RSP!) .

Then it was a simple task of fitting the wheels onto the pegs.

I then went and painted the front hood air vent grey using more Testor's brand enamel.

PART TEN
"Fenders"

While the paint was drying on the front hood air vent, I measured and checked the brass pins that would be used for the front hood and main body to make sure transformation was going to be a smooth fit. When it was positioned in place, I cut the brass pins to the correct size and glued them in place .

 While the glue was drying on the brass pins, I inserted the rubber bushing and screwed in place the connecting body pivot.

 Then I glued and set in place the body pivot piece.

 Just to be safe I used two of my own screws to fasten it in place from the top as well.

 Then it was a simple task of gluing the front hood air vent in place.

I then went back to my trusty Testors enamel and painted the small waist piece grey.

PART ELEVEN
"Body"

I started painting some of the smaller details on the side of the body silver using Testor's Enamel.

 More side details using the same method.

 And I topped off the paint job by giving the top molded details a silver finish and giving A.R.C. some plush grey leather seats.

 Then it time to insert the rubber bushings and screw together the seat frame to the main front fender.

 My progress so far in alt mode with headmaster Daniel.

 And my progress in robot mode thus far. Up next:
The pelvic connection. (Sounds dirtier than it is)

PART TWELVE
"PELVIS"

To begin assembly of the pelvic region,
I started with the left hip and left pelvic beam pieces .

  I then put a drop of glue into the small recess
in the hip where the inserted rubber bushing and screw would rest.

  I then had to quickly insert the bushing and screw in place to connect the pelvic beam to the hip.

  I then repeated those steps for the right hip.

  Now I had to place both hips into the pelvic channel. I also put a very small filler in between both hip pieces in the channel. The filler? Black electrical tape with the smooth side out.

  I put some glue in the screw hole and on the flat surface for added stability.

PART THIRTEEN
"Twenty Seconds"

  I added some glue to the screw hole in the pelvic channel and on the flat surface. This glue is unreal. it will glue your fingers together at a sub-atomic level in 20 seconds flat if your not careful. Should do the trick on A.R.C.

  I used my remaining 10 seconds to screw in place the bushing and tapered screw into the pelvic cap.

  Sorry Springer, but this chastity belt isn't EVER coming off!.

  I then added my glue to the main screw hole...

  and set in place the tail fin.  Next up: Stinky feet!

PART FOURTEEN
"These boots were made for walking"

 The work on the feet began by painting her heels and bottom of the feet grey.

 Then I positioned where the shin would fit with the ankle.

 Next I inserted the rubber bushing through the ankle guard, ankle and shin and screwed all three pieces together.

 I then added my glue to the end of the screw and bushing for stability.

 The completed feet and ankle pieces. Next up:  The calf and knees.

PART FIFTEEN
"The ankle bone connected to the, shin bone..."

  Next I took the shin rotator piece and the right calf and positioned where it would fit. I then made sure that the fit was secure and it rotated freely once inside.
( Note: I did have to use an x-acto to trim the hole a little larger.)

  Using the machine screw I then screwed in place the shin rotator to the right shin.

  I then simply repeated those steps for the left calf & shin.

  Then I took the completed right lower leg and the right knee cap and positioned them. On my A.R.C. this did take a decent amount of sanding and fitting to make a smooth flush rotating knee movement.

  Once that was done I inserted the rubber bushing and glued it in place from the inside of the leg and screwed the machine screw into the rubber bushing.

  Then it was a simple matter of repeating the same steps for the left knee.

PART SIXTEEN
"She's got leg's...She know how to use them..."

  To finish the connection of the knees to the upper leg, I dropped some glue in the recessed hole where the rubber bushing would fit.)

  Then it was a simple matter of inserting the bushing and screwing it all together.

  I then simply repeated those steps for the left leg & knee. I also painted the wheel posts on both inside legs silver.

  Next, I painted both wheel rims silver using Testor's silver enamel.

 

  Then I popped both wheels onto their posts.

  Now it was time to begin the final part of the leg assembly. I began by making sure the bushings would fit and everything rotated freely. I then dropped some glue in the recessed hole for the rubber bushing.

PART SEVENTEEN
"Whew!"

  The next step was to very quickly insert the rubber bushing and machine screw to connect the upper leg to the hip beam. I then repeated the step for the other leg.

  Once the legs were both securely attached I flipped A.R.C. upside-down and checked the alt mode transformation for a nice clean fit. Once I was certain of the fitment I added my glue to the holes where the brass pins would go for transformation.

  Then it was a matter of waiting for the glue to dry. Once it did, those brass pins were there to stay!

  Don't get fooled, you need 'em. The reason for the brass pins:  A.R.C.'s legs will be unstable in alt mode if they are not connected. Think of them as Cybertronian stabilizers.

  Next I went to my research photo's and gave A.R.C.'s gun a little more life by giving it some black highlights using Testors enamel.

  My very last assembly step was to paint the windshield blue and insert it into place. This was a nice tight fit without the glue, which is fine because I may try to either get a clear windshield or make my own in the future.

And that's it! all I have left are a few minor paint applications and touch-ups to do.

Paul's completed
CyberFembot A.R.C.

Epilogue
"All the dirty bits"

1     X-Acto knife
3     X-Acto blades
2     #0 fine tip paint brushes
1     Can of Krylon Fusion Pink paint
1     Can of Krylon Fusion Blue paint
1     Roll of paper towels  (Not pictured)
1     Jar of paint thinner
8     Different Testors Enamel paints
1     Pair of tweezers
1     Sharpie
1     Small Phillips head screwdriver
1     Pair of pliers
1     Pair of scissors
1     Bolt cutter
1     Roll black electrical tape
1     Piece of low grit sandpaper
1     Bottle of glue
1     Two sided model clamp
1     Electrical drill and drill bits   (Not pictured)
4     Flesh wounds from x-acto blade
6     Band-Aids
23   Hours of assembly time
8     Hours of Fine tuning and painting time
9     Reference photo's
324 Unprintable expletives during assembly (Not Pictured)
1     Very happy A.R.C. owner. (Not Pictured)